So Any1 know of a SMALL and simple program I can get to optimize jpegs?
Should hopefully be finished this weekend.I34z1k wrote:I am going to get rid of this cheap chrome job.
It had like bubbles and was pealing and was not smooth.DAE_JA_VOO wrote:I34z1k wrote:I am going to get rid of this cheap chrome job.
How is that chrome job cheap? That chrome job is a damn good chrome job
Anyway, what's your plans/ideas for the mod so far?
And a handle Should be finished in a few days.Now, if the heat source is at the TOP, the whole process is screwed over.Vertical orientation required - In our simple model heat pipe, the working fluid simply drips back to the heat source. It is quite obvious that this design will only work in vertical orientation. To overcome this limitation, commercially available heat pipes do not rely on gravity alone to move the liquid back to the heat source; they take advantage of capillary action. The inside of the heat pipe tube is filled with a capillary structure, often referred to as wick.
Different structures are being used:
* The most simple structure is a grooved tube. Here, capillary action merely helps gravity; vertical orientation of the heat pipe is usually still required.
* Most commonly used, due to better capillary action, is a multilayered metal mesh.
* Sintered powder capillar structures allow the stronges capillar action, but are more expensive to manufacture. Even with this design, performance of the heat pipe still depends on the orientation, and upside-down operation usually still isn't possible.
Sourece: http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1089370asus a8n32 tested in both configs w/compunurse
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I just finished building 2 systems with this board.i played with one on the bench for a week before i had to assemble it for the customer.I ran the board in standard mounting position and then upside down.i ran each in this position for 3 days each.
No fans at all blowing on the board.there was a 5c-7c degree difference in the temp of the chipset.i monitored the temps with compunurse.the probe was touching the core.in standard config temps were 39-42c idle and 46-51c loaded prime for 6 hours.upside down config idle temps were 42-44c and loaded 53-58 prime for 6 hours.the ambient temp in the room was right at 78 deg f.a/c in fla.blowing a fan on the motherboard made very little difference.so it seems like it makes a difference but not enough to destroy your board.i personally prefer the active cooling fans on these boards as i can always modify the heatsink and fan and get them to run nice and cool.all these o/clockers and modifiers cant stand a little fan noise and have to have silent boards,i dont understand it.look at dfi boards true o/clocking boards and you dont see heatpipes on them.there is a reason for it,cooler temps with active cooling and you may have a small amount of fan noise but you have to be pretty anal to complain of the amount of noise the fan makes when working properly.and when a fan goes out it takes very little effort to put on a replacement or modify an aftermarket one to work better than the oem one.my asus a8n-e o/clcoked with a modified cooler on the nf4 chipset never gets above 38c and runs normally at 33c ina 78f room.i like the foxconn sli 590 board and as hot as these nf5 systems run i wouldnt buy a heatpipe board.the new dfi 590 sli board looks nice.ill get one of those before the year is out.......
Edit.virtualrain [H]Lite
I've researched this for my heat-pipe based board and this is what I've learned...
First of all, if you do a bit of research on heat pipes, they simply contain distilled water which vaporizes from the heat and the idea is that the vapor goes to the cooler area, is cooled by the fins and the CPU fan back to liquid form and then flows back down to be recycled. Hence if you invert a heat pipe board, their will be no water on the south bridge or north bridge to vaporize and it will instead pool at the mosfet end of the pipe. This is obviously not going to keep your NB/SB cool.
So while a heat pipe doesn't depend on gravity for the vapor to move (it goes to the coolest area), the cooled vapor turns into water which must use gravity to find it's way back to the hot spot, since water does not travel up-hill, inverting a heat pipe will not work.
Having said that, although I don't have a link to it, I came across someone who has my board (simple NF4 NB only) and simply attached a water block to the flat surface of the heat pipe over top of the NF4 chip and was successful in cooling it that way... although this was still defeating the heat-pipe it was sufficient to cool his NB. This won't work with this board since it has both NB/SB and the NB is not a flat surface upon which you could simply mount a water block.
So, you will need to put water blocks on the NB/SB and remove the heat pipe. You can ignore the mosfets or put passive ram sinks on them if you are really concerned about heat there but since the heat pipe was actually transferring heat from the NB/SB to the mosfet area, I can't imagine they are affected much by high temperatures.
In fact on most heat pipe boards, only one bank of mosfets is covered by any kind of heat sink, the ones on the other side are left bare. Someone reported that feeling the mosfets under load indcated they were not that hot. At any rate, for my system, I'm going to put passive heat sinks on them just for the hell of it.
The Swiftech MCW30 may be a good choice for a NB/SB water block.
Good luck.
