Rippers Green Ghost AKA Black Void (updated 13 July 08)

Prime · Post by **Prime** » 10 Aug 2005, 23:15

Hetre is My mod so far.

I still have some cables to sleeve and have to buy round IDE Cables. im using FLexiglow extreme Neon CCFL's and a Speeze Owlstreme cooler with a Vantec spectrum UV Fan and and a Zalman NB cooler model ZM-NB47J.
I made my own bay bus. The black switch controls the lights and the small thingies next to it are Reostats that adjust the line input on the left and right channels on the line input next to them. I still have to spray my case on the outisde and inside, and fitted knobs to the reostats.

I'm trying to achieve the biohazard/toxic waste spill and so im thinking of fitting EL wire round the base underneath. Any suggestions about fitting windows.

I'm holding off on the spray paint because I'm supposed to be getting a super tower Case.

You cant really See the glow in the Dark affect with a Camera.

Any suggestions?

Bio-Hazard · Post by **Bio-Hazard** » 10 Aug 2005, 23:29

Use tighter (smaller) cable wrapping. It will looka lot nicer. Maybe even UV reactive wrapping. While you're at it. make your molex connectors UV as well. And definately lengthen all those wires lying around so you can take them around the inside edge of your case.

Prime · Post by **Prime** » 10 Aug 2005, 23:52

hey. im definately changing the cable Wrapping on the motherboard power cennector.

i'll shift some of the looser wires around. i definatley need round cables. what about putting LEDs in the molex connectors.
thanx for all the tips.

Prime · Post by **Prime** » 12 Aug 2005, 01:38

hi here is a photo of my almost finshed baybus. i just have to make another audio connector-this time to take sound directly from the cdrom drive.

ive started sanding my case but im kind of stuck at the moment. the areas where ive snaded of the paint and polished up the steel look really nice. should i leave it as bare polished steel with the silver look or should i slap primer(coast coat) onto the bare metal and spray it black and top it off with clear laquer.

Android · Post by **Android** » 12 Aug 2005, 06:30

pretty :0

Prime · Post by **Prime** » 12 Aug 2005, 20:37

thanx.

Bobendren · Post by **Bobendren** » 12 Aug 2005, 21:43

da_ripper wrote:hi here is a photo of my almost finshed baybus. i just have to make another audio connector-this time to take sound directly from the cdrom drive.

ive started sanding my case but im kind of stuck at the moment. the areas where ive snaded of the paint and polished up the steel look really nice. should i leave it as bare polished steel with the silver look or should i slap primer(coast coat) onto the bare metal and spray it black and top it off with clear laquer.

Post some more pics! We can't comment if we can't see it.

Prime · Post by **Prime** » 12 Aug 2005, 21:46

hmm i have some more but they arent great. very blurry.

anyone know where i can get small knobs for my reostats. i have more pics of my case with out any paint that i will post as well

Prime · Post by **Prime** » 12 Aug 2005, 22:03

Pictures of the bare metal sidepanels to follow shortly

here they are. the white patch is just the light reflecting off the bare metal.

tommorow they will become black

NealeDeadlyAlien · Post by **NealeDeadlyAlien** » 12 Aug 2005, 23:32

Hmm sorry off topic

I think I know about 20 people who have that exact same cd writer, which obviously means it is a really good writer.

Prime · Post by **Prime** » 12 Aug 2005, 23:38

funny you should say that. i have another computer with an identical drives and the cd burner doesn't work properly. it disconnects itself (as in it ceases to apear under device manager) and crashes the computer. plus it wrote off most of the cd's i used in it.

hp made good cd writers. but they had crap burning programs

Rid1 · Post by **Rid1** » 12 Aug 2005, 23:42

Nice work ripper...But greens not my colour unfortunately!

OFF topic reply to NEale...

I've had the 7000 series of that writer, it was my first ever...it was 2 speed and i paid like R2000 for it! I'd actually never go back to it! At the time, it was not compatible with any cloning prog, I dunno about now!
I sold it last year at a loss of R1900...It took me sometimes 1 hour to write 1 cd...sometimes it fails! There goes the whole hour!

Back to topic!

NealeDeadlyAlien · Post by **NealeDeadlyAlien** » 13 Aug 2005, 00:04

Lol

I never ever really experienced with HP writers and yea I do remember a couple of years back people wanted 1500 for that cd writer 8O

However I like my samsung and it does serve me well

Back to topic

Prime · Post by **Prime** » 13 Aug 2005, 00:07

i say what ever floats your boat or "what ever boils your kettle" for colour.

my cd writer-the one in the pic work perfectly. i use nero with it as opposed to veritas

Prime · Post by **Prime** » 16 Aug 2005, 01:58

here are more pics of my case. just cut a winodw in the side opanle with lots of help from my dad and sprayed it black.

the paint needs to harden before i put the panels back on my case. do i need to put clear laquer over the black.

i am going to order a biohazard applique from the modshop.co.za to go on my window.

im thinking of making the perspex extend behind the fan so hat the fan hole glows.

what the best way to spray the inside of a case. does it also need primer?and what parts should i spray

Rid1 · Post by **Rid1** » 16 Aug 2005, 02:13

nice neat work there...I Think the outside parts will need a lacquer, otherwise it'll scratch very easily... Also if you're sprayong the inside, Primer will be best, But i dunno if its going to be worth it to spray the inside...
Because its hot inside and paint may peel, but if you do then i think you should use primer, just for the heat reason....wWoWw!

Snowflke · Post by **Snowflke** » 16 Aug 2005, 02:37

I sprayed the inside of my case, the only issue I had is when I put the parts back I chiped some of the paint so be very careful. Nice work, keeps getting beter and beter.

Samaya · Post by **Samaya** » 16 Aug 2005, 18:08

Has anybody ever tested the air temperature inside their box? If anybody did then they will have realized the temperature dont actually rise much higher than their MOBO. SOOOOO, If paint starts to peal at say, 50C then you bought some seriously CRAP paint of probably zimbabwean decent manufactured in Bob's garden shed and mixed with Bob's bath water... The only reason paint would peel in your box is if you didn't do the right preparations. So if you do that right then you shouldn't have any problems.

BTW dude your case is coming together very well. Looking forward to see the finished box.

ElDiablo · Post by **ElDiablo** » 16 Aug 2005, 18:23

Samaya wrote:Has anybody ever tested the air temperature inside their box? If anybody did then they will have realized the temperature dont actually rise much higher than their MOBO. SOOOOO, If paint starts to peal at say, 50C then you bought some seriously CRAP paint of probably zimbabwean decent manufactured in Bob's garden shed and mixed with Bob's bath water... The only reason paint would peel in your box is if you didn't do the right preparations. So if you do that right then you shouldn't have any problems.

BTW dude your case is coming together very well. Looking forward to see the finished box.

Using primer would solve the pealing problem...

Ihsahn · Post by **Ihsahn** » 16 Aug 2005, 18:25

That looks kickass the reason i say that is that i have a similar case exept red fans and red round ide cables. Good work i say

Ihsahn · Post by **Ihsahn** » 16 Aug 2005, 18:29

Samaya wrote:Has anybody ever tested the air temperature inside their box? If anybody did then they will have realized the temperature dont actually rise much higher than their MOBO. SOOOOO, If paint starts to peal at say, 50C then you bought some seriously CRAP paint of probably zimbabwean decent manufactured in Bob's garden shed and mixed with Bob's bath water... The only reason paint would peel in your box is if you didn't do the right preparations. So if you do that right then you shouldn't have any problems.

BTW dude your case is coming together very well. Looking forward to see the finished box.

True True, ssafest bet is to buy engen enamel spray paint. It can take the heat and is R6 more

Prime · Post by **Prime** » 16 Aug 2005, 20:27

i think i will use black coast coat then to paint the inside. i was thinking of making the inside dark green even or using flourescent spray paint but i think i will have to leave the inside until i have a bit more cash.

coast coat has a heat range of 250C and metcoat which they use on fireplaces has a heat range of up to 300 degrees i think.

hammerite is the most durable paint though but it has special painting requirements.

i still have to fit a window. ive decided to laquer my case. waas looking through my pc formats today and i couldn't decide what to do with the inside.

anyone know hwat plastic world charge for a 1m2 perspex 2 mm thick

having looked at others mods some of them left the inside bare while others polished it up and others painted it.

i think black with green lighting will look best.

thanx everyone for your help so far. will post some more pics soon

Prime · Post by **Prime** » 16 Aug 2005, 20:38

its an aopen case as far as i know btw. i wish it had my moms aopen bezel though. similar case to her machine but it has a rear fan and different front bezel from her case which looks better though.

Prime · Post by **Prime** » 18 Aug 2005, 02:34

hi here are more pics. i apologise for those with low bandwidth.

i will reduce the size tommorw nite.

my pc goes in sometime after 8 this morning to have the graphics card checked. i suspect it is faulty. in which caase they will replace it.

in ythe meantime i have been lacquering it. i ran out on the top piece so the sides have not yet been done. but the paint is hard and doesn't scratch easily.

enjoy

Post by **maxxis** » 18 Aug 2005, 10:50

Very nice and clean mod there ripper.

Kinda makes me want to sort out the Antec for a change. Wires all over the place. But I need to buy a new PSU first.

Cheers and post some more pics.