Watercooling Setups
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OK, i need a few things cleared up!
On DAE's behalf...
Is it 2 for income or 2 for outlet?WiKiD wrote:Another Q, i see that CPU Waterblock has 3 holes, shouldn't I be getting a Y splitter?
Is this method rightWiKiD wrote:I see the res also has 3 holes! Thus I must get another Y-splitter, right? And how does this whole setup come to gether starting from the Pump? Where does it go from the pump and so forth! Thanks!
DAE_JA_VOO wrote:@wki1d:
Like this: Pump -> Res -> Rad -> CPU Block -> GPU Block -> Back to pump
or
Like this: Res -> Pump -> Rad -> CPU Block -> GPU Block -> Back to pump
Make sure the rad is the LAST thing the water goes through before it gets to the blocks
Is it true?WiKiD wrote:All that could be better IMO from Synapsys is the CPU block, I don't know. Because everything brought in from DD is better IMO, the Res, the tubing, the pump. I don't know how the CPU blocks compare!
On DAE's behalf...
DAE_JA_VOO wrote:I have a question. I was just browsing the danger den store, and saw that they've got alot of different Maze 4 GPU bloks, but there were two that sood out.
1) The regular Maze 4 block, i want to buy 2 of these.
2) A low profile version of the regular one. A lower profile would be good as i'll be using them in an SLI rig, but will the lower profile hinder performance?
Help??WiKiD wrote: Another Q...isn'y it better to split the water flow from the rad in 2 seperate pipes, one for the CPU and one for the GPU, thus sending the same temperatured water to the CPU and GPU and then Joining them after they went through??
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okay - inlet on the cpu block would defo be in the centre - outlets would be in the sides
its far better to just have one circuit going rather than complicating the issues even though it can be done the other way - but it wont change your results too much so the simplest way is the best
im gonna have the inlet in the centre and the outlets in the sides are going to lead to instead of a y-splitter it will feed into each of the gpu blocks since im going to run sli - and then from the two gpu blocks i will go into the y-splitter thus i will also have one circuit only
if it helps this is going to be my config
RAD --> cpu --> 2 graphics blocks --> pump/reservoir --> RAD
the reasoning bewing this the rad is where the water is cooled - from there the most critical aspect is to cool the cpu - and from there the water is still cool enough to cool the gpu's - then it goes into the res and my pump is within the res - so the heat from the pump is transferred to the water and that is cooled when it goes back into the rad
about the low profile blocks - they should be within a degree or two close to the origional blocks so even the low profile blocks would work just as well - and if you dropped around 10 degrees from aircooling - to lose two to have the low profile blocks isnt a train smash
about the stuff from dangerden - to me it would be just as good as arthurs stuff if not better but i think it is better but wether it is to a degree that its worth buying from overseas i wouldnt like to venture a guess - but beanie would know better than me about that since he has tried out those dangerden blocks and i havent - but if you are determined to have absolute best then yeah go for it
i have looked at your diagram - definitely its too complicated - from the rad - just go into the centre of the cpu and from there the two outlets must go into a y splitter and then that single one can go into the gpu block and then again only a single one all the way through - im quickly gonna have a look a t the res that you want i dont know why it has an inlet and dual outlets - so im just going to have a squizz at that but you only need one inlet and one outlet to keep it simple - in fact only one y-splitter is totally neccesary at the cpu block only due to the twin outlets there
again MrBean may have a better way of looking at it but im certain he will for the most part of it agree with what i say or will have very good reasons for the bits that he doesnt agree with with
nope - that becomes very complicated - and then again the gpu would normally have been a lot hotter than the water coming from the cpu anyway - so to have the water going from the cpu to the gpu would be fine - it all quickly settles down to a situation where the water going past the cpu after a very short while would only be around a degree or so warmer than the water coming in and thoat temp is still okay to feed into the chipset and gpu blocks - in a space of one year i never ever shut down the pump - so even when the machine was shut down the water was still circulating - this keeps a smooth flow without adding air bubbles - each time you stop and start the pump - also temps stay cool permanently - so it was an advantage to have a seperate power supply for fans and cold cathodes which was permanently powered up together with the pumpso the rad fans are also still spinning all the timeAnother Q...isn'y it better to split the water flow from the rad in 2 seperate pipes, one for the CPU and one for the GPU, thus sending the same temperatured water to the CPU and GPU and then Joining them after they went through??
its far better to just have one circuit going rather than complicating the issues even though it can be done the other way - but it wont change your results too much so the simplest way is the best
im gonna have the inlet in the centre and the outlets in the sides are going to lead to instead of a y-splitter it will feed into each of the gpu blocks since im going to run sli - and then from the two gpu blocks i will go into the y-splitter thus i will also have one circuit only
if it helps this is going to be my config
RAD --> cpu --> 2 graphics blocks --> pump/reservoir --> RAD
the reasoning bewing this the rad is where the water is cooled - from there the most critical aspect is to cool the cpu - and from there the water is still cool enough to cool the gpu's - then it goes into the res and my pump is within the res - so the heat from the pump is transferred to the water and that is cooled when it goes back into the rad
about the low profile blocks - they should be within a degree or two close to the origional blocks so even the low profile blocks would work just as well - and if you dropped around 10 degrees from aircooling - to lose two to have the low profile blocks isnt a train smash
about the stuff from dangerden - to me it would be just as good as arthurs stuff if not better but i think it is better but wether it is to a degree that its worth buying from overseas i wouldnt like to venture a guess - but beanie would know better than me about that since he has tried out those dangerden blocks and i havent - but if you are determined to have absolute best then yeah go for it
i have looked at your diagram - definitely its too complicated - from the rad - just go into the centre of the cpu and from there the two outlets must go into a y splitter and then that single one can go into the gpu block and then again only a single one all the way through - im quickly gonna have a look a t the res that you want i dont know why it has an inlet and dual outlets - so im just going to have a squizz at that but you only need one inlet and one outlet to keep it simple - in fact only one y-splitter is totally neccesary at the cpu block only due to the twin outlets there
again MrBean may have a better way of looking at it but im certain he will for the most part of it agree with what i say or will have very good reasons for the bits that he doesnt agree with with
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<-----------
See previous Page
See previous Page
WiKiD wrote:Here is my list DAE....thanks buddy!
1 x Copper RBX for Athlon64 & Opteron 754/939/940 3/8"
1 x Acetal Version MAZE4GPU 3/8"
1 x 12V DD-D5 Pump NEW! 3/8"
1 x Danger Den Bay Reservoir High-Density Polyethylene 3/8"
6ft x Tygon 3603 Tubing 3/8" ID 5/8" OD
2 x Brass Fittings 3/8" 1/4" NPT
2 x Polypropylene "Y" 3/8"
Last edited by WiK1d on 31 Dec 2005, 02:40, edited 1 time in total.
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go for the slim ones only if you need the space - if you have the space the full size ones will be better - but if you are struggling for space thats what the slim ones are there for - you will experience a very small performance hit so if you have the space then avoid that by just getting the full sized - so it depends on the number of pci card you want to addDAE_JA_VOO wrote:Wow naughty, it must've taken ages to type that, but thanks.
So i should go for the slim Maze 4 blocks? Cool. Same price, so i don't mind at all.
will check up on the res later wikid - and will reply tomorrow - just a bit busy doing a windows install for a client so im skipping between two pc's now
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We are getting our stuff from a place in Australia now, but everything is in 1/2"
RBX Lucite Top with 3 1/2" Chrome Fittings
Danger Den DD 12VCD - D5 1/2" OD Water Pump
Danger Den Actel Maze4 Series GPU Cooler with 1/2" Fittings
1/2" Polly Y
1/2" Polly Y
So I must get tygon in 1/2" and the bay Res in 1/2".....corretc?
RBX Lucite Top with 3 1/2" Chrome Fittings
Danger Den DD 12VCD - D5 1/2" OD Water Pump
Danger Den Actel Maze4 Series GPU Cooler with 1/2" Fittings
1/2" Polly Y
1/2" Polly Y
So I must get tygon in 1/2" and the bay Res in 1/2".....corretc?
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Where can I find a Plug??
I wanna order the Tubing and Bay Res from DD, but the shipping is more than the tubing and res together! I really like that Tygon, but will ClearFlex be just as good?
How bout that res used in the ORAC mod?
Can you look at this website http://www.chilledpc.com.au/contact.html and give me some recommendations!
I wanna order the Tubing and Bay Res from DD, but the shipping is more than the tubing and res together! I really like that Tygon, but will ClearFlex be just as good?
How bout that res used in the ORAC mod?
Can you look at this website http://www.chilledpc.com.au/contact.html and give me some recommendations!
Tygon is the best. You can use clearflex, but it will go opaque eventually. It is not as flexible as Tygon either, which is my main problem with normal tubing.
But, it can be used. And you can get a reservoir from Arthur. Asetek ones are fine, they will accept standard fittings as well, just unscrew the quick couplers.
Plugs can be purcahsed from local Festo, or any Industrial Instrument Supplier. I think you may even find them at Mica, for example.
Let me check the link...
But, it can be used. And you can get a reservoir from Arthur. Asetek ones are fine, they will accept standard fittings as well, just unscrew the quick couplers.
Plugs can be purcahsed from local Festo, or any Industrial Instrument Supplier. I think you may even find them at Mica, for example.
Let me check the link...
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