WC Guide
Posted: 15 Nov 2007, 15:30
Hey guys.
After too many topics like this, I think a final one is in order.
Basically what I want to do is have a thread with some good info on wc, anyone that knows what they are talking about is welcome to offer extra information, it will be a help.
I think the first thing to clear up is the whole non-conductive fluid / leaks story.
Non-conductive fluid is amazing stuff. But usually, they cost a small fortune. Fluid XP is said to be non-conductive, but in my experience, it is, sadly, conductive. You see the thing is it usually in non-conductive or barely conductive, until it comes into contact with any other contaminants, in my case, it was dust that cause my fluid to be conductive, I know it was conductive because it killed my psu. If I had to suggest it, I would have to say spend the money on MCT-5 or MCT-40. These fluids are manufactured for Danger Den. They are the least conductive, but obviously there is a premium. If you weren't interested in spending so much, the next best would be PC-Ice or Primochill-Ice.
But the fluid usually isn't an issue. If you build your system correctly, you need not worry about leaks. The only necessities of a watercooling system would be that it is anti-corrosive and anti-algae. The local gurus usually use distilled water or preferably de-ionised which is virtually non-conductive, mixed with about 10 to 20% anti-freeze with a drop of sunlight. Another method is 1l distilled water, 2 table spoons bleach and 2 drops of sunlight .
Deciding on components is the first step to take once you have got over the leak story. A regular loop has a pump, a cpu block, a t-line and a radiator. These are the bare necessities. A more complex loop can have a cpu block, gpu blocks, pumps, radiators, reservoirs, passive cooling, flow meters, temperature monitors, northbridge blocks, ram coolers, hard drive blocks. The possibilities are endless, not to mention the combinations.
If you decide on taking the plunge, its best to set yourself a budget, and aim to stay a few hundred rand over it at most. There is no use in buying Gigabyte, Thermaltake or Vantec watercooling. There are many reasons for this.
They are cheap and mass produced. There is one rule in life, you get what you pay for. Swiftech for example, only make watercooling components. There is a reason for this. They are good at it, they have specialized. The RnD that has gone into these components is much more than what has gone into the massed produced rubbish that Thermaltake uses to rip people off. Just as a comparison, you wouldn't buy a Panasonic or Pick n Pay car now would you? If you can't afford a proper system, rather buy something like a TR U120X, it will perform better, for cheaper.
Just as a quick comparison, this is the internal maze of the Fuzion D-Tek, which is currently the market leader.
This beautiful design must have taken thousands of man hours to perfect. To come up with something that performs well does not happen on the first few attempts.
Now here is a marketing image from Thermaltake.
I believe this is enough to show the difference in design and quality.
The cpu block is one of the main watercooling components. It can potentially make the biggest difference temperature wise. Other good examples of waterblocks are:
Swiftech Apogee GT
Swiftech Apogee GTX
D-Tek Fuzion
EK Supreme
These are some of the best cpu blocks available at present.
Radiators play the next biggest role. They act as a heatsink for your system so they are vital. They usually come in 120mm sizes, like 120x120, 240x120 and so forth. These are very debatable though. There is a definite best when it comes to these, but it is priced very high. The Thermochill series of radiators literally leave the competition in an oven. The specialize in radiators. They are based in the UK which causes the prices to be so high.
I personally believe that these make a difference. Other people disagree. Some other good suggestions would be:
Black Ice Pro 3
Black Ice Extreme 3
A pump is just as important as the rest of your setup. This is more simple. Basically, you can choose to build a high flow, or high pressure system. High flow cools better, but doesn't perform as well with multiple blocks or resistance in the loop. High pressure supports more components but doesn't cool as well individually.
The two main competitors are:
High Pressure:
High Flow:
These two aren't the be all end all of pumps, but most of the designs are reincarnated versions identical to these.
I beleive this will be enough for part 1
Mike
After too many topics like this, I think a final one is in order.
Basically what I want to do is have a thread with some good info on wc, anyone that knows what they are talking about is welcome to offer extra information, it will be a help.
I think the first thing to clear up is the whole non-conductive fluid / leaks story.
Non-conductive fluid is amazing stuff. But usually, they cost a small fortune. Fluid XP is said to be non-conductive, but in my experience, it is, sadly, conductive. You see the thing is it usually in non-conductive or barely conductive, until it comes into contact with any other contaminants, in my case, it was dust that cause my fluid to be conductive, I know it was conductive because it killed my psu. If I had to suggest it, I would have to say spend the money on MCT-5 or MCT-40. These fluids are manufactured for Danger Den. They are the least conductive, but obviously there is a premium. If you weren't interested in spending so much, the next best would be PC-Ice or Primochill-Ice.
But the fluid usually isn't an issue. If you build your system correctly, you need not worry about leaks. The only necessities of a watercooling system would be that it is anti-corrosive and anti-algae. The local gurus usually use distilled water or preferably de-ionised which is virtually non-conductive, mixed with about 10 to 20% anti-freeze with a drop of sunlight. Another method is 1l distilled water, 2 table spoons bleach and 2 drops of sunlight .
Deciding on components is the first step to take once you have got over the leak story. A regular loop has a pump, a cpu block, a t-line and a radiator. These are the bare necessities. A more complex loop can have a cpu block, gpu blocks, pumps, radiators, reservoirs, passive cooling, flow meters, temperature monitors, northbridge blocks, ram coolers, hard drive blocks. The possibilities are endless, not to mention the combinations.
If you decide on taking the plunge, its best to set yourself a budget, and aim to stay a few hundred rand over it at most. There is no use in buying Gigabyte, Thermaltake or Vantec watercooling. There are many reasons for this.
They are cheap and mass produced. There is one rule in life, you get what you pay for. Swiftech for example, only make watercooling components. There is a reason for this. They are good at it, they have specialized. The RnD that has gone into these components is much more than what has gone into the massed produced rubbish that Thermaltake uses to rip people off. Just as a comparison, you wouldn't buy a Panasonic or Pick n Pay car now would you? If you can't afford a proper system, rather buy something like a TR U120X, it will perform better, for cheaper.
Just as a quick comparison, this is the internal maze of the Fuzion D-Tek, which is currently the market leader.
This beautiful design must have taken thousands of man hours to perfect. To come up with something that performs well does not happen on the first few attempts.
Now here is a marketing image from Thermaltake.
I believe this is enough to show the difference in design and quality.
The cpu block is one of the main watercooling components. It can potentially make the biggest difference temperature wise. Other good examples of waterblocks are:
Swiftech Apogee GT
Swiftech Apogee GTX
D-Tek Fuzion
EK Supreme
These are some of the best cpu blocks available at present.
Radiators play the next biggest role. They act as a heatsink for your system so they are vital. They usually come in 120mm sizes, like 120x120, 240x120 and so forth. These are very debatable though. There is a definite best when it comes to these, but it is priced very high. The Thermochill series of radiators literally leave the competition in an oven. The specialize in radiators. They are based in the UK which causes the prices to be so high.
I personally believe that these make a difference. Other people disagree. Some other good suggestions would be:
Black Ice Pro 3
Black Ice Extreme 3
A pump is just as important as the rest of your setup. This is more simple. Basically, you can choose to build a high flow, or high pressure system. High flow cools better, but doesn't perform as well with multiple blocks or resistance in the loop. High pressure supports more components but doesn't cool as well individually.
The two main competitors are:
High Pressure:
High Flow:
These two aren't the be all end all of pumps, but most of the designs are reincarnated versions identical to these.
I beleive this will be enough for part 1
Mike