The Perfect Spray Job

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DoOb
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The Perfect Spray Job

Post by DoOb »

Perfect Spray Job

Step 1: Workspace

Your workspace that you are going to spray paint in must be free of Dust, Sand, hair and anything else that could destroy your spray job. One of the best ways is to clean the area down with water. Working in your garage is good. You don’t really want wind blowing onto your spray job which will carry all types of fragments of things that will destroy your work.

Make sure if there’s a car in the garage to take it out or cover it with canvas or newspaper. But rather just take it out the garage. You want to have free movement in there and no off spray of paint going onto the car. I have had off spray but its paint dust but still you don’t want to risk the car with paint on its surface. Another important thing to have is good light. Otherwise you wont see your coats when you doing them. So you might not have even finishes after each coat. Don’t let this happen.

Step 2 Sanding

The first thing you want to do when spray your case or an metal surface it to first clean it of any dust hair etc. I use water and sunlight liquid.

After you have cleaned it, you want to get some water paper (very very fine sand paper). If you want to have a good spray job this sand paper you have to have during coats.

Now you start sanding the surface evenly. This best way for a smooth even finish is to cross hatch when sanding. How you do this, is sand lightly and evenly with a flat hand horizontal until the whole surface is completed. Then you sand the opposite way vertical. Do this until you finish is smooth just about. (Using a sanding block will give you an even sanded area. This all depends if your surface is completely flat) Make sure not to focus on one area to much. Only if there is a scratch in the surface then sand that out. But making sure the area around it follows through evenly.

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Step 3 Primer

This step is an important step. During this stage you want to make sure your paint sticks to the surface better. Primer will do this. The best primer to use is Duco. It’s a grey finish but doesn’t have that smooth finish.

So first thing is you need to shake the can well so the marble or lend piece runs smoothly from one side to another in the can. Normally a 1minute shake or so does the trick.

Step 3.1: Primer Coating

Ok you have a good sanded surface. Now this primer will stick on like wonders.
Normally when I spray paint, I will spray in short bursts about 30 centimeters away, maybe closer. But remembering how much pressure you put to the nozzle when letting the paint out. With practice comes perfection.

So we know this is an important stage laying down that primer, so you want to spray a full horizontal coat first over the whole surface. Not too thick otherwise the paint will run depending if your metal is lying flat or if you have it lying 80 degree angle. But rather have the metal flat.

Light coats are key here. You have to be patient when spray painting. So depending on how you want your base coat depends on the layers and your patience. If buying spray paint isn’t an issue then put a whole can to ¾ of one on the surface.

So during coats of spraying primer you must go lightly horizontal and what 2mintues and then go lightly vertical. Once you have done say 4 coats both ways, look to see how your finish is. You don’t want to see patches. Think of mesh with holes in between. You don’t want that. This cross hatch must be tight and even. Now what I do is take the water paper again and sand the primer lightly not taking it off but making it smooth. Then running it through water to get rid of any paint dust from sanding, drying it with a towel or in the sun. Make sure you also make sure there are no wet spots in coats to come.

So after a couple coats, light sanding and cleaning it down with water start going thicker on the coats but then waiting so the paint sets. You can speed up the drying time by using a hair dryer. Rather not, because it sucks things through that might mess up the paint job.

Ok your primer should be done now. Go once more with water paper just to give it that last smooth finish. Now you should have bought a good couple of cans of clear lacquer paint. Duco is very good no doubt but I would go with Spectra Spray paint it give you a better gloss mirror finish, which my case has. You want to spray 4 layers or so of clear over that primer just to protect it. After the 2nd coat you want to sand it again lightly and evenly with water paper. Then spray the last 2 coats of clear this is where the beauty of a good spray job. Doing my same technique your metal should have that gloss finish. This is where your colour coats will look like magic. Trust me.

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Might be a good to let the paint dry for about a hour or 2 before you start applying colour.

Step 4: Colour Coating

Ok now that your primer is done and clear finish on top of that, time for colour. Duco spray paint it very good paint. No doubt but I think Spectra Spray has that better gloss mirror finish, once again. So whatever colour you want you must get Gloss or if Metallic, I think you get Metallic gloss. Just check on that one.

Ok so this is pretty much the same steps as the above. All you going have here are more coats of paint. I would recommend at least 10 coats of colour. And say between every 3rd coats after it has dried completely give it a even light sanding with water paper, to get rid of any runs or maybe some hair or dust that had got on the paint surface.

Note: If dust or something does fall on your painted surface LEAVE IT ALONE.
I have tried getting it off when something that has attached itself to my paint work and ended up taking all the paint off and starting again. So after you have finished the coat wait for it to dry and then lightly sand the area with the dust or whatever is on your paint job. Then carry on with the coating.


The coats must be applied lightly and working your way up to thicker coats remembering to have efficient dry time for each coat.

Another thing to do is after your 3rd coat of colour and you have sanded it lightly with water paper, what I did is spray 1 or 2 coats of Clear Lacquer over that. Then applying another 3 coats of colour then sanding again.

Ok you have finished the sequence of coating colour (10coats at least), sanding (between every 3rd coat) and clear lacquer (after sanding 1 or 2 coats).Step 5: Lastly Clear Coats

Ok you should have left your panel or whatever you have sprayed over night to dry. And if it is a sunny day a hour in the sun.

Ok now you are mainly done. All you need to do is apply about 6 coats of Clear Lacquer to you painted surface. REMEMBER to sand between every 3rd coat and then sanding it lightly horizontal and vertical to get it smooth. Spraying with clear it is a good thing to have good light now. You need to be able to see those coats and the cross pattern. Also remember doing vertical and horizontal coats.
First coat Horizontal and the 2nd vertical. Your 3rd will be horizontal again. Then you sand lightly vertical. Try creating a rhythm.

Otherwise that’s it. If you take your time and do it patiently and do every coat with evenly with paint and make sure the paint isn’t too thick during coats, you are on your way to an awesome paint job.

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REMEMBER Practice makes Perfect. And Patience is KEY
Hope this is what you guys wanted. If you have some tips of your own or want to quote off mine do so. It took me and Hour and a half to do this.

So I don't want remarks just tweaks or how to do it better. My case looks sweet from doing it mainly to this sequence.


ENJOY and Have Fun

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Last edited by DoOb on 12 Mar 2007, 14:37, edited 2 times in total.
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DarkRanger
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Post by DarkRanger »

Thanks doob!!

Guess what I'm doing this afternoon!! :D
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Post by Hman »

Spraying clear coat over primer is just a waste. If your primer is dry you can put your color over it directly, your paint job will be much tougher that way. Seeing as your paint will stick better to your primer, than your clear coat.
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Post by qace »

Thanks Doobs
DoOb
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Post by DoOb »

Spraying clear coat over primer is just a waste. If your primer is dry you can put your color over it directly, your paint job will be much tougher that way. Seeing as your paint will stick better to your primer, than your clear coat.
Yea that would actually be a good idea. I did do mine that way just thought. I should edited that. Don't need to spray a clear over your primer. It is a waste.
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Off-The-Chart
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Post by Off-The-Chart »

I will be giving this one a try on the speakers of that sub I wanna mod...

And thanx again for putting this one together...
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Post by DarkRanger »

Doob, you make me feel like singing... Doobi Doobi Doobi Doo.... :lol:
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Post by Hman »

8) Also, for guys whom haven't sprayed much before, I suggest not going closer than 30cm, as they'll spray their coats too thick very quickly.

Another tip for quick drying is using a heater without a fan.

Also, Matte black will dry even quicker. You may ask, "...but my case will be matte then". Not if you use a clear coat afterwards. :wink:
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Post by WAJeff »

Nice one Do0b! Its a bit late for my old case that I sprayed. It came out ok but if I just touch it the paint peels off. Not worried about that case no more though coz I'm concentrating on my mod at the moment. Maybe I should spray the inside black aswel... Damn, that sounds like a good idea!
I think you gonna get the whole forum buying spray paint today :wink:

Nice tuturial though, its gonna help a lot of peeps!
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Post by DoOb »

My pleasure guys.

After doing a very hard push 22kms this morning i got motivated. I cycled with my friend again this morning. But there were theses other older cyclers. WE passed them but then they passed us further down the way. So we tried to keep up but that didnt work. Woke up this morning at 3:30am. eish I just woke up just now. I had 4hrs sleep from my after my ride

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Samaya
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Post by Samaya »

Can one of the mods Make this sticky please. Great walk through Doobs. Now I know how to paint too. :mrgreen:
DoOb
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Post by DoOb »

Thanks Samaya

Yea would be cool if this was a Sticky
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Post by DarkRanger »

How does maxxis say... uhm... "I'll add some toffee."

Maxxis, can you add some toffee to this?? :wink:
DoOb
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Post by DoOb »

As some Stickiness to this one or Toffee LOL. Yea Maxxis Pls Do
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DoOb
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Post by DoOb »

Another Perfect Spray job, this Guitar has too many coats. I put 4 cans of red and 3 cans clear or was it 4 hmmm.... o well.

Here it is:

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Post by Futs »

Very nice, should show you pics I have of my sprayed guitar. has a nice look and feel to it.

Good one.
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DoOb
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Post by DoOb »

Thanks very much Futs
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Post by Tander »

Cased looked awsome when I saw it yesterday buddy, very nice! :D
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Post by haja »

heya,

not a bad guide, but there are a few errors as other have pointed out.

Spraying clear laquer over the primer is not only a waste, but counter productiove. The whole point of primer is to fill any imperfections in the surface (micro scratches) and to put down a good base for the main coat (clour) to stick too. Putting clear over the primer takes away the latter, defeating the purpose of primer entirely IMHO. Also, primer should be used from the same company or make if possible, to avoid any reactions. Nothing worse than spraying your colour only to find the primer reacting and bubbling your lovely new spray job.

Also, I think it should be noted (and I am assuming here) that it is not 10 COMPLETE coats that need to be done. This is total overkill, as you should be able to get a good job after 3 layers (ie, spray once, wait for it to dry, sand, spray again, wait for it to dry, sand, and spray one last time). The '10 coats' I assume you are talking about are perhaps 3 light coats per layer?

Also, if you get imperfections on your last coat, it is not the end of the world. You can get rubbing compound and buff the area where the imperfection is. You can rub a run out with very fine waterpaper (2000) and then buff it with some rubbing compound.

After that spray the clear laquer and you will be sorted (sometimes it is not necessary to spray the clear, as high gloss paint has a 'clear coat' all of its own')
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Post by Vektor »

8) Guess there is going to be some work done later in the garage.
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Post by DoOb »

haja wrote:heya,

not a bad guide, but there are a few errors as other have pointed out.

Spraying clear laquer over the primer is not only a waste, but counter productiove. The whole point of primer is to fill any imperfections in the surface (micro scratches) and to put down a good base for the main coat (clour) to stick too. Putting clear over the primer takes away the latter, defeating the purpose of primer entirely IMHO. Also, primer should be used from the same company or make if possible, to avoid any reactions. Nothing worse than spraying your colour only to find the primer reacting and bubbling your lovely new spray job.

Also, I think it should be noted (and I am assuming here) that it is not 10 COMPLETE coats that need to be done. This is total overkill, as you should be able to get a good job after 3 layers (ie, spray once, wait for it to dry, sand, spray again, wait for it to dry, sand, and spray one last time). The '10 coats' I assume you are talking about are perhaps 3 light coats per layer?

Also, if you get imperfections on your last coat, it is not the end of the world. You can get rubbing compound and buff the area where the imperfection is. You can rub a run out with very fine waterpaper (2000) and then buff it with some rubbing compound.

After that spray the clear laquer and you will be sorted (sometimes it is not necessary to spray the clear, as high gloss paint has a 'clear coat' all of its own')
Thanks but ya, Um 10 layers is the overall, If YOU want a cheap spray job go ahead. My case has mpre than that becoz i did less than 10 and the frikken stuff chipped off. So Guys if you want a sh*t spray job go ahead,

I do things properly not any old how will do
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Post by haja »

cool doob, fair enuf. But 10 layers is total overkill. If the layers are done correctly, then you need 3. Talk to anyone that sprays cars, and let them know you do 10 layers, they will laugh at you.

But to each his own, but if you want this to be 'The perfect spray job' 10 is total overkill.

Maybe rename it to 'Doob's way of spraying' then.

Yes, this is a PC case, not a car, before anyone pipes up, but I figure if you can spray a car, then a PC case should not be too hard, not so?

BTW, 10 layers will chip just as much if not more than 3 or so, as you are just adding to the paint. The reason your job will chip is because of crap preperation, like spraying laquer over primer, which is laughable in itself.

Anyhoo, just though I would share my experience, use it, don't use it, etc etc.
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Post by RobThePyro »

welly interesting :lol: I have two spary guns, an airbrush and a compressor at home that i havent used much(I.E. not experienced....) Can anyone direct me to a guide on spraying you case with sprayguns etc(are they very diffrent from spray paint?) and what primers/paint/clear coats i should use and where to get them?

Thanks!
Rob.
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Post by DoOb »

like spraying laquer over primer, which is laughable in itself.
Yea i know i said that, i didnt actually do it on my new case spray job,

When i have better funds after my new pc, gonna start a new case mod.

With on wicked Spray job

Car spraying is totally diferent coz its thicker if i am correct, hmm i dont know anyway, coolbeans
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Post by Spicy-McHaggis »

RobThePyro wrote:welly interesting :lol: I have two spary guns, an airbrush and a compressor at home that i havent used much(I.E. not experienced....) Can anyone direct me to a guide on spraying you case with sprayguns etc(are they very diffrent from spray paint?) and what primers/paint/clear coats i should use and where to get them?

Thanks!
Rob.
As with any products sprayd with spray gun i would advise staying at a minimum of 45 to 50 cm distance.... depends on how thick u want the paint on the product.

If im not mistaken a spray can is 30cm... for perfect results
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