Never buy Cheap, buying cheap is a expensive mistake.
Someone, please kick me in the nuts for that first two options!!WiKiD wrote:Which setup should I choose between these two?
http://www.cluboc.net/reviews/super_coo ... ol/wc_202/
Thermaltake Bigwater SE
http://www.thermaltake.com/watercooling ... 005-01.htm
Could I assemble a system for about a R1000 at
PS. Please don't lock it as I would like to get some straight answers.
This is very good advice!
Nice Thing for newcomersDAE_JA_VOO wrote: I strongly suggest that you stay away froom TT. If you don't trust my opinion, ask MrBean, he knows more about watercooling than Thermaltake themselves! LOL!!
Excellent advise on Coolant for the SystemDAE_JA_VOO wrote:@monty: You don't have to replace the water in ANY watercooling setup. Here's a good guide to water cooling:
More advice from MrBeanWiKiD wrote:More watercooling info
http://www.overclocking.co.za/forums/vi ... a2b59ae98a
Good ol' MrBean Says
MrBean wrote:Use water, distilled which you buy from Game/Macro or similar, and then add around 15% antifreeze to it. Yip, quite a high ratio, but I found 10-15% quite good to avoid algae growth, and change out the water every 5-6 months or so. Add 1 drop Sunlight Dishwash liquid to lower the water surface tension, and enhance it's ability to soak up heat. Adding antifreeze makes the water less efficient, so to speak, so I try and correct with a little sunlight liquid. Helps a little.
As an alternative, you could get some FluidXP from Arthur over at http://www.synapsys.co.za , it is a non-conductive fluid with cooling properties similar to water - not as good distilled water, but probably in the same league as water/10%-antifreeze mixture.
Let me know what you decide eventually - on a side note, I have never used special mixtures from any supplier, and I am one of the few guys never to have had any issues with watercooling and bugs
So, as I said, the best would be fluidxp, or then maybe my mixture.
More AdviceMrBean wrote:Okay, 1st things 1st.
10mm = OD (outside dia)
3/8" = ID (inside dia)
Metric pipes always measures OD.
Imperial pipes always measures ID. Thus, 3/8" is in actual fact around 9.7mm ID
a Std 10mm OD pipe will give around 8mm id, if 1mm wallthickness is observed.
Antarctica DYO = Do Your Own. Means the waterblock is not assembled, but it is very easy to do, you will need an allen key. Nothing else. Saves you a bit of money on the assembled block.
I have 2 Maze4's, they are very neat. While you at it, get yourself some 3/8" Tygon Tubing from DD, and then a DD Laing D5 pump. Get the rad local, Coolwave from Arthur, they perform great.
You can get 4 extra 3/8" male pipe fittings, with 1/4" BSP thread from DD, brass or nylon, for the rad and reservoir.
Pump will come with 1/2" fittings, but Tygon will stretch and fit easily over these.
So, to summarize: Laing DD5 Pump, Tygon tubing, Maze4 (3/8") gpu block and 4 extra fittings for rad from Dangerden.
Coolwave 2x 120mm rad, Antarctica DYO block from Arthur.
Reservoir - up to you, I will get the nice bayres from Dangerden as well!
@ Dae-ja-voo: HTTP 12V is an Eheim pump, manufactured specifically for Innovatek by Eheim. Designed for watercooling systems, but don't put to much in the way of waterblocks in the loop - GPU and CPU is enough, and something like a BIX Rad, which offers low restriction.
Otherwise, get DD5 as advised to Wikid.
Nice for colouring your waterMrBean wrote: Take note that you can buy for much cheaper, but I hate cheap. Like TT big-kakka, etc.....rather buy once, and not again.
More Advicenaughty wrote:well to colour the water you could use food coloring - but that could start stuffing up the pump if it doesnt mix properly - so most of the time what the guys do is just buy antifreeze of the colour that they want and thats how the water looks coloured
there are also some of those UV reactive additives - but UV in your case isnt a great idea so i wouldnt use those - but if it floats your boat and you replace your ide cables regularly then by all means thats another option
personally id just use the antifreeze option - 10% of the liquid circulating should be antifreeze
shell makes blue - holts is green - and VW origional coolant is red .............. take your pic - im gonna use red cos my case is called "red hot chilli pepper"
More Advicenaughty wrote:not really manINSANE I TELL YOU
look - either you want to watercool or you dont - aircooling is fine for most setups - but look at high end aircooling
a nice cpu HSF would really set yo back around R500 to R700 at retail - whilst GPU hsf's like arctic cooling etc would also be around R500 each at retail - thus to get better performance you would need to spend - and for water to be three times pricier isnt all that hectic - since it will give you better overclocks and still be more stable
no-one said that high end watercooling is cheap - and the cheap stuff is worse than aircooling - so in this case its either "go big or go home" (cant remember who used that line - but im stealing it) - for any watercooling solution to be worth it its gonna cost far more than aircooling - thats why im just going to use u my watercooling parts - i have over 5 grand of stuff already - and im not in the mood to waste that - but later when i wanna go phase change its gonna cost me around 7.5 grand - and thats just for the cpu
this overclocking lark is really costly especially if you want results
ps just noticed your second post - and in terms of buying from dangerden and buying from sysnapsys - local warranties onthings like pumps etc will make any differences in price worth your while - if a pump goes wrong then sending it back there to get repaired and paying for it to get sent back here will really kill your budget
More Advicenaughty wrote:okay - inlet on the cpu block would defo be in the centre - outlets would be in the sides
nope - that becomes very complicated - and then again the gpu would normally have been a lot hotter than the water coming from the cpu anyway - so to have the water going from the cpu to the gpu would be fine - it all quickly settles down to a situation where the water going past the cpu after a very short while would only be around a degree or so warmer than the water coming in and thoat temp is still okay to feed into the chipset and gpu blocks - in a space of one year i never ever shut down the pump - so even when the machine was shut down the water was still circulating - this keeps a smooth flow without adding air bubbles - each time you stop and start the pump - also temps stay cool permanently - so it was an advantage to have a seperate power supply for fans and cold cathodes which was permanently powered up together with the pumpso the rad fans are also still spinning all the timeAnother Q...isn'y it better to split the water flow from the rad in 2 seperate pipes, one for the CPU and one for the GPU, thus sending the same temperatured water to the CPU and GPU and then Joining them after they went through??
its far better to just have one circuit going rather than complicating the issues even though it can be done the other way - but it wont change your results too much so the simplest way is the best
im gonna have the inlet in the centre and the outlets in the sides are going to lead to instead of a y-splitter it will feed into each of the gpu blocks since im going to run sli - and then from the two gpu blocks i will go into the y-splitter thus i will also have one circuit only
if it helps this is going to be my config
RAD --> cpu --> 2 graphics blocks --> pump/reservoir --> RAD
the reasoning bewing this the rad is where the water is cooled - from there the most critical aspect is to cool the cpu - and from there the water is still cool enough to cool the gpu's - then it goes into the res and my pump is within the res - so the heat from the pump is transferred to the water and that is cooled when it goes back into the rad
about the low profile blocks - they should be within a degree or two close to the origional blocks so even the low profile blocks would work just as well - and if you dropped around 10 degrees from aircooling - to lose two to have the low profile blocks isnt a train smash
about the stuff from dangerden - to me it would be just as good as arthurs stuff if not better but i think it is better but wether it is to a degree that its worth buying from overseas i wouldnt like to venture a guess - but beanie would know better than me about that since he has tried out those dangerden blocks and i havent - but if you are determined to have absolute best then yeah go for it
i have looked at your diagram - definitely its too complicated - from the rad - just go into the centre of the cpu and from there the two outlets must go into a y splitter and then that single one can go into the gpu block and then again only a single one all the way through - im quickly gonna have a look a t the res that you want i dont know why it has an inlet and dual outlets - so im just going to have a squizz at that but you only need one inlet and one outlet to keep it simple - in fact only one y-splitter is totally neccesary at the cpu block only due to the twin outlets there
again MrBean may have a better way of looking at it but im certain he will for the most part of it agree with what i say or will have very good reasons for the bits that he doesnt agree with with
This must be the best post ever made by me! Perhaps there can become a sticy topic, for this post, and more contributions from MrBean and company!MrBean wrote:DJV: Be careful with that size tubing, it is huge.
My 3/8" id - 5/8" od Tygon is already very big. 15.875mm dia to be precise. So, make sure you have space to route 19mm dia tubing in your case.
It is going to be difficult, much more than you think. I urge you to reconsider, and get 3/8" id Tygon rather
@ Wikid: Yes, those 120mm fan-style reservoirs are neat, and would be nice if you have space/place for it - in your case you do, so one obstacle less. Would tidy things quite a bit.
If you could afford the Swiftech Storm, go for it - it is the best commercial block out there!
And again, thanks for all your help MrBean! I appreciate it soooooo much! And that beer you were talking about!